Maine Cleaning Services Blog

8 Steps of Mold Remediation Series: Step # 2 - Proper Containment & Engineering Controls

Mon, 21 May 2012 20:07:00 GMT

Mold spores are tiny microscopic organisms that can only be seen under a microscope. Mold spores can become airborne just by walking near an affected area. Aspergillus and pennicillium mold can stay airborne for up to eight hours after one small air movement. Proper containment is a critical step; if not done correctly by a certified mold removal technician, the mold spores can spread and expand the required work.

Imagine what happens to air quality during mold remediation which involves multiple technicians, equipment, demolition, etc. You guessed it! It gets pretty bad and all that mold can travel through the air columns to previously unaffected areas if proper engineering controls are not put in place. This is one area where corners are frequently cut in the industry.

First of all, poly sheeting (typically 6 mil) should be installed in the work area to isolate affected areas from unaffected areas. These barriers should be well sealed and may have a zipper door or flap in place. Any holes, gaps, open soils, salvageable insulation, contents, seams, duct work, vents, or openings should also be sealed off to isolate the work area. Once this has been achieved it is imperative to install a negative air system to place the work space under negative pressure relative to the unaffected area. This prevents fugitive mold spores from escaping to other areas of the building. If mold spores are spread, it is the contractors liability and they are responsible for the damages. Negative pressure should be maintained between -4 to -6 pascals (measured by a machine called a monometer) to prevent creating too much vacuum. Too much vacuum can draw particulates in to your containment, draw in gases, and can put excessive pressure on your poly sheeting which could cause collapse. It is crucial to monitor pressure differentials especially while entering and exiting your work space. Any time you enter or exit your work area, you open the sealed off space and air rushes in. Pressure must always stay negative (vacuum) or you could spread contaminants upon opening your barrier.

Air scrubbers must also be utilized to condition the air during the mold remediation work. Air scrubbers are large HEPA (high efficiency particulate air) filtered machines that clean the air at a given rate per hour. Depending on the project the goal should be to achieve an air exchange rate of at least 3-10 air changes per hour. This is calculated by taking the square footage of the area and the ceiling height to determine the cubic footage. Once this number is calculated air scrubbers should be employed accordingly to clean every cubic foot of air x number of times per hour. This keeps the work area as clean as possible throughout the remediation process. Air scrubber filters should be cleaned or changed based on project requirements. Many projects will also require special low grain dehumidifiers, supplemental heat, supplied air machines, make up air filters, etc.

Every mold remediation project is unique and will have slightly different requirements; however, this can serve as an overview you can use to better understand the remediation process. Proper containment is a critical step that if not done right can simply spread the problem and expand the required work. In our next article we will discuss the actual mold removal process which can involve a number of different approaches.

8 Steps Of Mold Remediation Series - Step #1: Proper Identification & Work Scope

Mon, 14 May 2012 23:06:00 GMT

Mold in our home and work environment has become an increasing hazard as our buildings get older and tighter. First of all, it is important to understand that mold spores are found everywhere and you will never get rid of mold spores completely. Mold is an essential micro-organism that is needed for life to flourish. Mold eats and degrades dead organic matter in the outdoor environment and is critical to the decomposition process. That being said, "mold growth" is never acceptable in a living or work space. Mold can become a problem whenever moisture levels or humidity levels become high enough to support development which can be as low as 16% moisture content or 60% humidity depending on the type of mold.

If you have or suspect mold in your work or living space, the first step is to determine a proper work scope. A mold inspector or remediation company in Maine can inspect the damage to determine the best course of action however it is typically best to consult a 3rd party industrial hygienist (IH) for testing and assessment of potential health hazards. It is NEVER acceptable to have the company proposing remediation (mold removal) to also conduct the testing services. This is a serious conflict of interest and is illegal in many states and frowned upon in the rest. An industrial hygienist has at least a Bachelor's degree and is certified by the board of industrial hygiene to conduct proper testing, provide a full work scope and to identify safety and health hazards. The "IH" works for you the property owner and oversees the remediation work to ensure a proper outcome. Many home inspectors and mold removal contractors try to take over this task without the proper credentials. A home inspector or mold contractor is qualified to identify mold and to identify causes, but once the inspection takes place it should be turned over to an IH for proper handling. An IH can also certify that based on the results of post mold remediation testing that no health risks are anticipated; an inspector or remediator can not determine this.

Once a mold problem has been identified and a work plan has been established, the remediation firm must then follow the steps outlined by the industrial hygienist. These steps can vary depending on the type of damages however the eight step process that should be followed are:

Proper identification & work scope;
containment / engineering controls;
controlled demolition & or abrasive removal;
pre-cleaning;
secondary hygienic cleaning;
treating /sealcoating salvageable framing if applicable;
final inspection of work area; and
3rd party post testing to verify cleaning efficacy.

These steps will work every time if followed properly. In the next articles we will discuss these eight steps in detail and break down the process of remediation. We will also discuss short cuts that are often taken by remediation firms that you should look out for. Health and safety hazards are plentiful when mold problems are confirmed; be sure that you are getting your project handled correctly!

Three Steps to Properly Remove Mold From Your Home or Business

Sun, 26 Feb 2012 22:28:00 GMT

The presence of mold in an indoor environment is typically due to things such as chronic humidity and condensation, poor ventilation, improper appliance exhaust, improperly mitigated water damage, or a combination of these conditions. Whatever the cause, the mold growth should be inspected by a qualified mold remediation contractor. It is important to investigate the source of mold growth, the scope to remove the mold, and the steps to correct the moisture source that lead to the mold growth. Often this may require enlisting the services of other contractors. For example, if water proofing, weatherization, air sealing and insulation are required it may be necessary to consult other contractors.

For as much quality information that is available about mold remediation there is an equal amount of misinformation. Proper removal of mold must include three steps:

1) identification,
2) remediation, and
3) clearance testing.

Corrective measures to prevent recurrence MUST be taken after mold removal as well.

Within these steps are the opinions of contractors, advice from friends, and an endless supply of searchable articles and sites on the web. This can often leave a building owner more confused than informed. What are the right steps? What are things to avoid?

A common misconception is to spray bleach and water to kill mold. Mold spores are very difficult to kill with chemical applications. Bleach is quite ineffective in killing mold and even in a dead or inactive state mold can still be a respiratory hazard. Mold produces mycotoxins which are secondary metabolites (not involved in primary functions of an organism) that are capable of causing illness and disease in humans and other animals. This is why a physical removal of microbial growth is needed to ensure a healthy indoor environment. Physical removal can range from hygenic cleaning and hepa vacuuming to media blasting or controlled demolition of affected finish materials.

Ventilation of a crawlspace or basement will "air out" growth. The presence of open perimeter ventilation in a crawlspaces or opening basement windows can do far more harm than good depending on outdoor conditions. By allowing outside air in which can be quite warm and humid you can actually cause or elevate condensation within basements and crawlspaces. A soft drink can taken from a refrigerator on a hot summer day is a great example of condensation. When placed in the warmer air outside the refrigerator, water vapor condenses and returns to liquid form on the can. The cooler surfaces of a crawlspace or basement act the same as the can. It is important to keep those environments free of excess moisture, closed and mechanically evacuate excess moisture from the air by means of a dehumidifier (be sure to select a unit sized appropriately for the space it will be used in).

Paint over the mold to seal it. Painting or covering mold growth with another material allows the growth to continue to consume the surface on which it is growing. For example, spraying a color blocking primer on roof sheathing will cover cosmetic staining, but if not properly cleaned it may not stop the mold from continuing to consume the sheathing which will in time degrade its structural integrity. Structural wood must be remediated properly before any sealant or paint is applied. Media blasting such as dry ice or soda blasting is a typical method of mold removal for roof sheathing.

Mold in a basement doesn't affect air quality on other levels of a home. The Stack Effect, which is airflow that results from air rising creates negative pressure at the bottom of the building and a positive pressure at the top. This negative pressure causes air to rise from one floor to the next. If there is mold growth in a basement detached mold spores can travel into other areas because of the stack effect. Those spores can then settle out on surfaces and dust in these new areas. Air Quality testing by a qualified industrial hygienist can verify through air and surface sampling if mold is present outside of visibly impacted areas.

If you are seeing what you believe to be mold in your home be sure to: limit your entry into the affected area, if applicable enlist the services of an industrial hygienist, and do your research carefully. Mold removal is not a do-it-yourself project for the average homeowner. Improper removal of mold can cause the spread of spores to unaffected areas. Proper containment, air pressure monitoring, and personal protective equipment (PPE) are essential to protect both the building occupants as well as mold remediation contractor. The process of identifying origin, remediation of the growth, and advices on corrective measures can be achieved by working with a certified mold remediation firm.

Fire and Smoke Damage Clean Up

Fri, 02 Dec 2011 00:14:00 GMT

Fire damage in your home can be a very traumatic experience. It can also be a very confusing one. While it is the hope that a fire will never happen, if you experience one there are certain steps you can take to make the situation easier to manage.

Homeowners often believe that once the fire is extinguished there is little to be done until their insurance company has an adjuster onsite. This is not the case. What is a chaotic and traumatic time can be made more manageable by contacting a mitigation contractor who is IICRC certified in fire / smoke damage. A qualified firm can begin crucial procedures to restore your property. The IICRC is the Institute of Inspection Cleaning and Restoration Certification. This is the group responsible for the standards by which restoration specialists are trained and certified.

Qualified mitigation contractors can aid in cleaning or removing fire damaged areas of the home, deodorization and neutralization of odors from smoke, and effective communication with the insurance adjuster assigned to the claim. What does this mean for you? A less stressful situation (despite the emotional impact you suffer) and a hassle free process of fire / smoke clean up and restoration of your home or business.

Typically, soft goods are the most susceptible to odors and must be handled by a qualified restorative textile specialist. All surfaces within the building should be thoroughly cleaned and deodorized. Some finished materials may be damaged beyond repair and must be removed. Soot must be addressed as soon as possible to minimize secondary damages such as surface corrosion. For example, tub and shower units can be permanently discolored if they are not cleaned as soon as possible.

Fire damage is devastating whether confined to an area or affecting the entire home. When the suppression is complete it is imperative to begin the process of mitigation as quickly as possible.

While the experience of fire damage is not one that is easily faded from memory, it is one that can be made more manageable by choosing an IICRC firm with fire / smoke certified technicians.

Written By: Heather Ricker, Project Manager Octagon Restoration

For any fire / smoke damage and removal questions, please post on our Facebook page and we will try to help!

Water Damage Maine: The importance of a Competent Water Damage Mitigation and Clean Up Company in Maine

Wed, 16 Nov 2011 02:47:00 GMT

Proper water damage mitigation and clean up is essential to save your home or business after flooding, ice dams, or burst pipes. In each of these cases the damage can be extensive and can include damaged drywall, insulation, wet hardwood floors, wet ceilings, wet carpets, etc. It is critical to act quickly when water damage situations arise to preserve and protect your property from mold and other secondary damage. In fact your insurance policy requires you as the property owner to act quickly to mitigate the loss.

Let’s explore some of the most common water damage situations we run into and discuss the differences in procedures:

Water Damage from Burst Pipes

Water damage from burst pipes can wreak havoc on a building. An entire structure can be saturated in hours from a burst pipe on the top floor of a two story home or from the 4th floor of an office space. This is what we refer to as a category one, class three water damage which means the water originates from a clean source and has come from above impacting the majority of an area including ceilings. The good news is that in many cases if caught quickly many building materials can be saved if aggressive drying efforts are employed, however it takes a veteran restoration technician to properly assess and diagnose the job site. The right equipment must be deployed quickly and decisions must be made quickly to prevent major demolition and re-construction. Water can and will travel everywhere with these types of intrusions and tools such as thermal imaging cameras, non-penetrating meters, penetrating meters and hygrometers are essential to identify ALL areas of impact. One room left wet for several days untreated can result in major mold damage.

Water Damage from Ice Dams

Water damage from ice dams can be very misleading to home owners or under trained technicians. A major festering water damage that is destroying the wall cavity can appear to be just a little water on the surface. Ice dams can leak suddenly and flood an entire exterior wall of a home and even leak out onto flooring. This type of damage is very easy to recognize. However, often they happen slowly and will saturate a wall cavity multiple times before becoming visible. This means that many times before it is noticed mold may have already taken hold in the wall system. Ice dams are typically category two, class three water damage projects. This means the water is not "clean" water but it is also not heavily contaminated water. It takes a thorough investigation to determine the proper steps with ice dams including, test cuts, the use of a boroscope, thermal imaging, etc. Water can travel down wiring and pipes and end up in another room so checking everywhere is imperative.

Most Common Water Damage in Maine: Water Damage from Ground Water Intrusion

The most common source of water damage in Maine is from groundwater intrusion. Ground water typically enters the home through the perimeter drains, basement walls or the floor and is usually category two or sometimes category three water. Category three water is considered unsanitary water that can cause severe illness or death to occupants. The water can be from rivers, streams, tidal flow, sewer drains etc. With most category two water damage and ALL category three water damage situations, materials such as drywall, carpet, base trim, etc. should be removed. With category two projects air movers, dehumidifiers, and heat drying units can be employed as long as mold has not developed and the damage was caught quickly. With category three projects extreme caution must be exercised to contain the area, discard porous materials, thoroughly treat surfaces with biocides and to dry the structure using a passive approach with no air movers to push contaminants around. In Maine disinfectants and biocides must be applied by a licensed spray application firm with a Master applicator leading the project.

In summary, every water damage clean up project is different in scope. Every project has different needs, and requirements. The field is a very technical field with very real implications for property owners if jobs are not handled properly. If you are the victim of water damage in Maine, you owe it to yourself to do the research and hire only the best for your home or business. You should look for an IICRC certified firm with trained, skilled technicians. Be wary of large franchises because many times the technicians are temporary workers and turnover can be quite high. Check with the better business bureau and check companies like Angie’s List for customer reviews. With the right company and fast action by the property owner even the largest water damage situations can be handled quickly with as little damage as possible.

Crawl Space Ventilation – Good or Bad?

Fri, 07 Oct 2011 17:15:00 GMT

Crawl Space Venting Often Causes Condensation, Mold Growth, Poor Indoor Air Quality and Higher Energy Bills.

Venting on a Hot Summer Day

When we say relative humidity we mean how full of water the air is relative to the maximum amount of water it can hold at a certain temperature. Think of what happens when you take a soda can out of a refrigerator on a warm summer day. Water droplets form on the exterior of the can and the can "sweats." This is because you have reached dew point on the cans surface.

When you allow warm moist air into a cool damp or moderately damp crawlspace through vents you are overwhelming the crawlspace air with excess water vapor. You will eventually reach dew which causes water droplets to form on pipes, concrete, framing, wiring, etc. The eventual result will usually mean severe water damage, mold damage and dangerous mold growth in the crawlspace.

The source of the cooling air in the crawl space is the earth, and the source of the warm air coming in is the crawl space vents or doors, so the surfaces in your crawl space are always colder than the air in a crawl space.

Now, on a summer day, there is condensation and the crawl space walls get wet, the dirt surface of the floor gets wet, the air ducts get wet - especially if we have the air conditioning on because the ducts are cold – and the cold water pipes get wet. These surfaces are the coldest. Our floor joists, girders, sill plates and insulation all get wet as well. And as the insulation gets wet, it often develops mold on the paper backing and eventually falls down to the crawl space floor.

High humidity in a crawl space causes any porous materials to soak up water vapor from the air. There is a direct link between the relative humidity and wood moisture content. Wood in a damp environment will become damp too – and damp wood will also support mold growth.

All of these wet surfaces in a crawl space will eventually have to dry too at some point. So say you have the hot summer days that cause condensation in the crawl space, then you have four or five days that are cooler and mild. Is the problem over? Not a chance. After the hot days we are left with an area with multiple wet saturated surfaces. They dry into the crawl space air over the next weeks and months, and meanwhile, mold and wood destroying fungi are taking over your house.

Venting on a Spring or Fall Day

If a day is 72 degrees outside and it is humid out such as 80%, then allowing this air into a crawl space will also cause condensation. 80% relative humidity (RH) air cooled ten degrees increases its RH by 22%, which added to the 80% RH is over 100%. This means condensation in the crawl space. Is this an extremely hot day? Absolutely not, it's a typical room-temperature day, yet we are left with a wet crawl space. Any time humidity levels exceed 60% there is a significant risk of mold activity occurring.

Venting on a Cool or Winter Day

If the RH of air goes up when we cool it, it goes down when we heat it. If a crawl space is vented in the winter and 35 degree air is mixed with 60% RH and air is warmed in a 62 degree crawl space, the RH goes to 3%. With this dry air we can begin to dry our crawl space. The dry cold air mixes with the crawl space air and cools the crawl space. As a result we have water evaporating from the earth into the crawl space air so we never actually achieve 3% RH in our crawl space, but materials dry out and there is no condensation. The new problem now is cold floors, cold drafts, freezing pipes and increased energy costs.

Exposed earth contributes a lot of water vapor into the crawl space air. The earth is damp, and as that damp soil releases moisture into the air, the water vapor moves upward into the house. In most climates where there are dirt crawl spaces, you can never dry the earth and this invisible stream of water vapor from the exposed soils in a crawl space goes on indefinitely. In fact, water itself does very little to destroy a home with a dirt crawl space. The water seldom - if ever - touches any of the parts of a house that gets ruined, like floor joists, sub floor, and sill plates. It's the water vapor, also known as relative humidity (RH), that causes mold and destroys the house.

The solution? In our experience a permanent vapor barrier sealed at the seams combined with an adequate dehumidifier system set to a humidistat is the best approach to prevent moisture from taking over your home. It is usually best to close all vents and air seal the perimeter around rim joist and sills. Also make sure the area is free of leaking pipes and if needed have a working sump pump in low areas. It is also wise to improve exterior drainage and to install gutters to drive water away from the structure.

To learn more check out this article from www.advancedenergy.org: To Vent or Not to Vent

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Attic Mold: The Importance of Proper Ventilation

Fri, 07 Oct 2011 17:03:00 GMT

Getting rid of attic mold is crucial to protecting your home’s value and to protecting the health and safety of your family. At the same time, your home’s ventilation systems must be updated or improved to keep moisture out and away from your home. This is essential to prevent recurring attic mold issues.

Proper attic ventilation is critical to maintaining even attic temperatures throughout the entire year. In the summer, proper ventilation removes excess heat. In the winter, it prevents the buildup of excess moisture/heat and accumulation of water condensation.

Unless there is an actual leak in the roof, it is during the late Fall, Winter, and early Spring that moisture - which can lead to attic mold growth - tends to occur. During cold weather, warm air and moisture from the house can escape to the cold attic area. When the warm moist air meets the cold surface of the roof sheathing, it can create frost and water damage that will eventually lead to mold growth and expensive mold removal and remediation. This damp environment creates the perfect conditions for wood rot and attic mold which over time will degrade the roof sheathing.

A common ventilation mistake is the combined use of different ventilation systems. Incoming air enters the attic through soffit vents, which are installed in the roof’s overhang. Exhaust air ventilation takes several different forms: Gable vents, ridge vents, and sometimes power vents. Mixing different types of ventilation systems can cause problems. For example, using a ridge vent and a gable vent together can cause a ridge vent to draw in moisture-laden air from the outside. When this happens, it can cause a damaging cycle of attic moisture accumulation and can confuse air flow.

There is a significant risk posed by bathroom fans that vent directly into the attic or soffit areas rather than to the outside of the home. In many cases, moisture from bathroom fans is the primary source of attic mold damage.

It is important to have a proper, balanced, ventilation system using equal amounts of incoming air and outgoing air. For bathroom vent fans it is important to use insulated ducting and to insulate around the vent pipe exiting the fan to prevent moisture from condensing inside of the pipe. If moisture condenses inside the pipe it can eventually lead to costly water damage.

In many cases there will be some level of moisture that accumulates in an attic space. This is due to extreme temperature differences between your home and the environment outside. If attic mold is suspected, give us a call to remove mold in your home. We can clean/treat the attic area and remove mold with a system designed to prevent future growth. Each situation is different, but dry ice blasting followed by aggressive cleaning is a preferred approach in many cases to remove mold growth and staining. Mold releases powerful enzymes that can decay and destroy wood framing. Mold contaminants can cause a wide range of potential health problems to your homes occupants, so don't take any chances.

Download this free Mold Guide from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency to learn about mold clean up and answer these important questions:

Why is mold growing in my home?

Can mold cause health problems?

How do I get rid of mold?